Wines from our southern neighbors

This week’s wine club meeting was a real pleasant surprise. You know you’re in for something special when as the wine bottles are opened, better and better wines get poured into the glass. Moreover, they weren’t wines that are well-known and that we were already used to, but something new and exciting. After the first spin of the glass, you are engrossed in the wine’s pleasant aromas and begin hoping that the taste will do the aromas justice, and yes! Its all there! This wine is none other than a Malvasia from the Istria peninsula. …

We tasted nine bottles of this variety, but to warm up, first we tasted a few wines from Serbia. Many people are surprised to hear about the wines that come from Croatia and Serbia. It’s true, that not much buzz in generated from this area. Similar to Hungary, they only started producing quality wines and marketing those the past one or two decades, the result of which we are only beginning to feel now. If you drive across the Istrian peninsula now, you’ll see spans of newly planted vineyards and olive trees. Along with the region’s wine makers, the country’s politicians have worked together to bring their Malvasia into the spotlight. Unfortunately, here by us, we really can’t find this variety, but if you’re traveling south this summer, plan to make a stop and taste the wines. From Serbia, we tasted wines from two regions, the first two wines came from Serbia’s Vojvodina province and the last three from the middle of Serbia.  

1. Misteria Rhine Riesling 2007
The winery was established in 1830 by the Hungarian Kiss family and today their grandchild runs the winery. Intense aromas, mainly mineral, not very complex, but slowly opens up to fruity aromas and a taste of bitter almonds in the end. The finish is not very long, but very balanced.
2. Mirna Bacska 2007
The Vindulo winery can be found just above Novi Sad, and the wine we tasted was a cuvée made of Chardonnay with Olaszrizling, Bácska, and Kozmopolita. An interesting blend, fresh, rich, with sweet aromas of apples, pineapples, and vanilla. The taste doesn’t live up to its nose, but despite this, this wine is pleasant on the palette, has great acidity, and is easily drinkable. 
3. Radovanovic Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Medium intensity, clean aromas, distinct varietal character that is definitely there, but not too dominating. Its acidity could be more pronounced, a little one-dimensional in taste, the finish is medium-long.
4. Szerb Királyi Pincészet Sauvignon Blanc 2007
This wine boasts true varietal character-everything is in there: elderberry, ivy, fresh-cut grass. Full mouthfeel with a bit of a bite and medium body. Refreshing, lively, nicely balanced acidity and long finish.
5. Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Unfortunately, the years can be felt on this wine and its age can be felt in the nose, suppressing any other smell. It has lost a large part of its acidity, and the taste just as uncertain as the nose with notes of fig and almond-peach preserves.

Then came the Malvasias, every single one of them from Istria. The best vineyards were just a few kilometers from the coast right after the first mountain range where lots of sunshine, a constant breeze, and cold nights make for some excellent wine.

1. Degrassi Malvazia 2008
Exciting in the nose, complex, lively character. Floral, fruity, and mineral. Solid acid spine, medium body, refreshing, easily drinkable, you just don’t want to put the glass down. I really like this variety.
2. Ben Venuti Malvazia 2008
Two young gentlemen operate this winery and their wine is absolutely fantastic! First, floral notes come to the nose followed by elderberry and linden, very much like a Sauvignon Blanc. Intense, long-lasting aromas, big, thick body with notes of locust blossom.
3. Veralda Malvazia 2008
Much like a Sauvignon Blanc in the nose, but it bouquet is also very unique and has a mineral side to it as well. Deep tones, serious character, elderberry, linden, and locust blossom aromas vibrate in the glass next to the mineral tones. In the mouth it is fruity, has great harmony, and is well-balanced, the 14.4% alcohol not being felt a bit. The finish is very interesting. Even the empty glass is still filled with aromas reminding you of a dessert wine.
4. Matiasic Malvazia 2007
Clean, but not very intense aromas, good acidity. The taste is not very concentrated, but there is nothing wrong with this wine; its easily drinkable. This is an organic wine and the winery doesn’t use any pesticides and don’t yield the grapes. The winery’s motto is that everything’s good the way God creates it.
5. Montis Malvazia 2007
It’s nose is surprising, unfortunately now in the bad sense. Perfume and barnyard aromas, slight ammonia taste.
6. Coronica Malvazia 2007
Again, Sauvignon Blanc aromas in the nose, elderberry, grass, hay, intense bouquet with the taste being a little weaker than expected..
7. Kozlovics Malvazia 2007
The winery is next to the Slovenian border with a part of their vineyard extending across the border. A nice mix of tropical fruit in the nose of mango and pineapple. Past its prime. Very ripe notes with big body. It was probably more exciting when it was younger.
8. Kabola Malvazia 2006 Reserve
Thick, intense, with strong oak notes. Coffee aromas just spill out from the glass, which is especially surprising coming from a white wine. Very unique, complex, creamy. Nice barrel tones of vanilla and caramel.
9. Matosevic Malvazia 2006
This also has strong oaky tones, nice, thick, full-bodied. In taste and nose it is fruity with hints of honey and caramel at the end. The last two wines prove without a doubt that this variety is a great candidate for barrel aging.