"It can't hurt if it's not in there!"- Zoltán Polgár

This could be the winery's motto. Zoltán Polgár believes that good wine shouldn't be based on chemistry, that you shouldn't need to orchestrate good wine. Everything that needs to be in the wine and the capabilities of the vintner are there naturally. It has been my opinion for quite some time now that Polgár's hospitality is unparalleled in Villány. Even years ago, when we first started going to Polgár's, I was always in awe of the enthusiasm, sincerity, and kindness that they projected onto their guests. Thankfully, this has not changed one bit over the years. We began our visit in the tasting room and tasted the new 2008 wines with none other than Zoltán Polgár himself. We bombarded him with questions, but as it would turn out, there wasn't much need, as he would readily offer all the interesting details throughout the evening. ...

Next to the existing pension they are building 17 new suites in addition to the 19 they have currently. There will also be saunas made from old concrete wine tubs to soak in. The current breakfast room will be converted into a cigar room and library. They also opened a restaurant in Budapest, on September 25th, called Polgár Étterem és Bortrezor (Polgár Restaurant and Wine Vault) where they will be hosting a wild game feast in the near future with live music--a bugle will sound before each course. Zoltán is a hunter. He has a farm where he keeps mangalica pigs, cattle (szürke marha), and horses. The latter of course not being kept for the purpose of being eaten! In fact, the geese served on his St. Martin's day menu were raised on his farm as well. But let's get back to the wine. Polgár Zoltánnak, as we found out, has a large collection of collectable wines. In his own wine vault he has about 12,000 bottles and we were lucky enough to be able to try some of them out. One of the oldest wine he has is a 1977 Tramini that is in great condition to this day. We, however, began with his newest wines.

Rosé 2008

Made from a Portugieser, Blaufrankish, and Kadarka blend. The harvested most of the grapes specifically for making this rosé. Thanks to the early harvest, this is a fresh, crisp, classic rosé with frim acid. Strawberry aromas dominate.

Pannon Primőr Portugieser 2008

The same technology used to make this new wine is used to make Beaujolais. The whole process is very interesting. They only use perfect clusters with all the grapes in tact. These clusters are then placed carefully into pressurized tanks so as to further protect the clusters. The tank is then warmed up and filled from the bottom with carbon dioxide until all the air is forced out of the tank. A protective atmosphere is thus created preventing oxidization and rot. The high temperature stimulates the bacteria to begin breaking down the malic acid within the grape. As the malic acid breaks down, lactic acid forms which releases aroma and at the same time increases the carbon dioxide within the grape. When the carbon dioxide comes into contact with the water within the grape, it is converted to gas that then begins to eat away at the interior of the grape where the pigment is and the soft tannins. The stronger tannins can be found on the outside of the grape--using this process, these do not get released. This process takes 10-12 days. There is a 2-3% alcohol content of must inside the grape which is then pressed and prepared in the same manner as white wine. This results in a very fruity, soft, enjoyable, elegant, grape-flavored new wine. It offers a full pallate without any harsh taste. A great compliment to any goose dish.

Rubin Cuvée 2007

A Portugieser, Blaufrankish, Merlot cuvée. Fresh, fruity, with notes of sour cherry. The lively acid balances well with the wine. Its inherent easiness gives this wine its elegance.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Dark, ruby colored with brown edges. Fermented in large oak barrels and was never trasferred to toasted oak barrels. Intense aromas, strong varietal character, and wondeful acidity. Big, full-bodied wine with dominant sour cherry flavor. More than likely, this will keep well.

Cabernet Franc 2005 Family Selection

Zoltán can't complain when it comes to his Family Selection. His whole family are experts in wine, so you can be sure that when they all agree that a wine is good, its really good. This is such a wine. They havested the grapes from Kopár dűlő and then fermented them in toasted oak barrels. Slightly brown in color, the wine looks older than it is. A sweet nose with leather and green pepper aromas. Mediterranean style with low acidity, a pleasant wine.

We continued the tasting underground in the cellar where the first barrel tasting was a 2007 Kadarka fermented in a large toasted 15 hektoliter barrel. Bright red with aromas of dates and raspberry jam. Though drawn from a toasted barrel, the barrel notes do not leave a strong mark which is especially a good this for this variety. The fruity side comes through best in this wine, easy, a real drinkable treat.

While on the tour, our host entertained us with words of wisdom and coined phrases one of which gave this article its title "It can't hurt if it's not in there!" I'd like to mention just a few more here because they were so amusing (I hope they come through in translation!). When we arrived at the large oak barrels, someone mentioned an interesting tid bit regarding beer production (some beers are also stored in similar barrels) whereupon Polgár remembered an old Szekler saying, "Beer is not a drink, a woman is not a person, and a bear is a toy!" After tasting a few more items we heard "If I can't sell it, we'll drink it ourselves!" --something I'm sure will not be a problem, but we'd gladly help should that ever be the case. In the end, we arrived at the wine chapel. A real santuary with candles, frescos, and hand-painted wood panels on the ceiling. Here we tasted the following wines:

Kékfrankos 2007 barrel sample

The grape yield was curbed for this variety. Concentrated nose, sour cherry aroma, big body, strong barrel notes. The latter of is not surprising considering this was a barrel sample!

Pinot Noir 2007 barrel sample

Darker in color compared to the average Pinot, scent of autumn leaves, full body, sweet, a little low in acid.

Syrah 2007 barrel sample

The vines were imported from France ten years ago and were grafted into 13 year old vines located in Kopár dűlő. The vines are now 23 years old, reaching deep down bringing flavor. Fermented is their own oak barrels. Exciting, complex, caramel and coffee flavors. Long finish. Unfortunately, we'll have to wait one or two more years to see this on the market, but be sure to keep an eye out for it! I know I will!

Polgár Cuvée 2007 barrel sample

Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc blend. Still a little raw, we detected vanila, black berry, and plum aromas. The alcohol is a bit high, but in time it should blend in. Nice, full body, long, coffee-flavored finish. Its acids are balanced, flavors concentrated. This will be a big wine so be sure to watch out for this one!

We finished the wine tasting at the wine vault were we enjoyed a four course meal. The vault is hundreds of years old with two large and many smaller wings. The largest area is 1600m2, and able to sit 300 guests. It is difficult to determine the exact age of the vault, but according to the most recent documentation, it orignates circa 1812.

Since 2004, Polgár has also been producing champagne. He got the idea from a 1927 article written in the Pesti Napló with the following title: "Where the world's best champagne is produced". The place was Villány where the royal family, Schaumburg Lippe, built a chamgagne factory in 1912. Their Crémant Rosé and Crémant Blanc were hugely successful. Polgár revived this tradition and are making bottle fermented champagne.

Crémant Blanc Brut Champagne

Made from Chardonnay and Muskát Ottonel varieties, the wine is bottled and then fermented for 14 months. A completely raw champagne with no aroma or flavor additives. Small, sharp bubbles float up in a nice row to the top bringing with them apple, apple kompote flavors. A perfect champagne, exciting, wonderful taste.

Hárslevelű 2005

Golden yellow, sweet, and very dry. The strong acidity really comes through in the finish. Aromas of linden tree blossoms and honey are easily detectable. This is a good wine to keep. We immediately put this to the test.

Hárslevelű 1995

A much deeper golden yellow color, and much more intense in aroma. More "together", deeper, honey dominates the nose and you can definately detect age. Mineral notes. This wine is still in perfect condition and will most likely be good for a few more years to come. Commenting on this wine Zoltán said: „To drink a Hárslevelű less than five years old is practically a crime!”

Chardonnay 2007

The buttery, creamy barrel notes practically melt into the innate flavors of teh wine. Peach note can be felt in both the nose and on the pallate.

Kékfrankos 2007

Purple, ruby, young colored wine with intense fruity aromas, silky mouthfeel, and raspberry, sundried fruit after-taste. Medium body, after the first taste though, the alcohol comes throught stronger than what is needed.

Merlot 2000 Family Selection

A real treat from Zoltán's personal vault. This could be a textbook example of this varietal. It is bursting with intense aromas of sour cheeris and cognac. In taste it is smooth, silky, well balanced, round, a great wine thanks to the vintner and time. This was only fermented in non-toasted oak barrels. Unforuntately, this wine is no longer on the market.

Pinot Noir 2006

Terracotta color, with orange rim. Telling flavors with an elegant easyness about them. Fragile body, beautiful, confident acid spine, huge pallet and pleasant finish.

Syrah 2006

At first heavy, concentrated aromas reach the nose. Safe and other wild herbs, later fresh ground pepper dominate the aromas coming from the glass. Very unique!

Polgár Cuvée 2003

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc from one of the better years. Nice, full-body, ripe sour cherry aromas, round, ripe tannins. Holdng up nicely.

Elixír Cuvée 1995

Zoltán Polgár made his first Elixír Cuvée in 1988. He showed is a '95 from his collection. It was in peak condition and I would easily say it still has another 5-10 years. This wine is not made every year, only the best years. A big, full-bodied wine, vevety texture, seasoned with flavors of ripe sour cherries and nutmeg. Great with wild game dishes.

Aranyhárs 2006

Finally, we have arrived at the last course--desert--and with it a sweet, botrytized wine. Nice stong acid balanced well with the residual sugar. A perfect compliment to the deser with was made from an aranyhárs cream in a filo dough basket.

Kadarász 2005

A late botrytized harvest from 2005. Polgár said that year was terrible summer, but the fall was all the more beautiful. Thanks to these conditions, this became such a wonderful, unique desert wine with 48g residual sugar and 14.5% alcohol. Reddish-brown in color, incredible aszu aromas, peach coming out strong amidst the other flavors.

Our traditional evaluation that we have at the end of each tasting turned out to be quite difficult--we had tasted so many wines! The 2000 Merlot took first place and second was the 2007 Syrah and finally the 2007 Kadarka. In summary, we learned a lot from our host, heard many interesting stories, from the world-trotter cosmopolitan vintner. This is a place where you can get to know the vintner, his philosophy, humor, family, experiences, plans, and just simply an all and out good place to be.