Sauska Pincészet

This winery has peaked my curiosity for quite some time now. I’ve always been interested in the "black sheep" in the wine industry, those who crave something new, those people and places that do not choose the trodden path. Sauska winery is not one of your "typical wineries". Their philosophy is to strive for perfection both at the vineyard and during processing, always following their high standards. To the locals, they may seem a bit irrational with their nightly harvests, the lengths they go to for maximum sterility, etc., but there is a reason for all that. They produce nice, clean cut wines. I must admit, I was also interested to find out more about the winery because of its ties to California (the years I spent living in California made me a die hard fan of their wines) and I had been hoping to find some similiarities to the Calfornian wines here. And boy did I! …

Kristian Sauska first stepped into Villány’s limelight in 2003. At first, he wanted to start with a smaller winery, but it ended up being much bigger than originally intended thanks to a few positive twists of fate. They now own 90 hectars of vineyards with approximately 40 hectars in Villány and 50 in Siklós. The vintner, Latorczai László, is aided by Amanda, a Californian vintner who flies in to offer her help. The first harvest was in 2006. The timing was impeccable because 2006 was such a good year, a very good time to start. Not to mention 2007! I’ve heard from quite a few vinters now that 07 is even better than 06. And then there’s this year’s wine, 2008. From preliminary tests, it is quite possilbe that this year’s wines will be even better! Fingers crossed!

Kúcs Gyula, the wineries president, greeted us. First, he showed us all around the place and introduced us to the techologies used and their company’s philosophy. Let me just say, everything we saw and heard was absoluetly amazing. At Sauska, they believe that the quality of the wine is determined primarily in the vineyard. They place much importance on determining the ripeness of the grape and when the vines should be harvested. The harvested grapes they sort with their hands. Cleanliness is one of the most imporatant aspects throughout the process. Sometimes, this may seem to be a bit of an overkill, but this all serves the quality of the wine. We tasted 14 wines in total; this is curently their complete wine selection.

Sauska Rosé 2007

Made from Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah grapes. They put the entire cluster of grapes into the press that results in a darker color, but in aroma a wine that is strikingly similiar to the Sauvignon Blanc, low in acidity; a great New World rosé wine. California in style, they call this wine a blush. It is made from totally ripe grapes, so its alcohol content is higher, but not at all intrusive. By all means a unique wine here in Villány.

Sauska Siller 2007

Made from Merlot-Cabetrnet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc-Pinot Noir-Syrah-Blau Frankish grapes left for one day in their skin. Much darker in color than the previous rosé. In taste very different. Intense strawberry jam aroma. Fruity, velvety, smooth wine very easily drinkable. Should be consumed while cold. Its alcohol content is high at 14.5% having more of a "bite" when served warmer. Acidity is lower than what you would be used to.

Chardonnay 2007

Harvested in Siklós, made with reductive technology in steel tanks. Slightly green, olive in color. Clean, reflective, fruity with floral armoas and a hint of green apple. One of the interesting things about this wine is that they harvested the grapes at night since the days were quite hot and this is how they wanted to preserve the fruity aromas. The wine was aged in an oak barrel making it a bit sharp, but interesting and exciting in style.

Chardonnay 2006

Golden yellow in color, clean, and reflective. It aged for six months in an oak barrel. An orgy of fruity aromas swirls in the glass—cantalope, apples, grapes. More well-balanced and refined than its younger sibling.

Pinot Noir 2007
Dark in color, not the usual Pinot color with pomegranate, purple colors around the edges. The wine was not filtered nor clarified. A bit high in alcohol and raw in taste. It needs a bit more time.

Blaufrankish 2007

1200 bottles were made. Dark purple in color, concentrated taste, fruity, ripe flavors, nice clean notes, elegant oaky flavors. Only French oak barrels were used and its pleasant, elegant aromas can be felt in the wine.

Kadarka 2007

The most expsively prepared grapes at the winery. They leave only 4-5 clusters of grapes on the vine, its shoulders cut off and every other row pruned before it reaches ripeness. Afterwards, the grapes can develop comfortably without pressing against one another. This "wellness" prgram costs the winery 1300 fortints per kilo. The wine is very pleasant, concentrated in flavor, with elegant oaky notes.

Syrah 2006

You can meet many styles of Syrah in Hungary. Since it is a relatively new wine here, many are still finding their way. Sauska has already found theirs. Smooth, in wonerderful accord, pleasantly palatable, in great harmony. Sleek and complex, the Californian style can be felt here as well.

Cuvée 11 2006

56% Cabernet Sauvignon – 25% Merlot – 19% Cabernet Franc. Pomegranate, brownish in color, full-bodied with big tannins. Dark ripe fruity aromas of sour cheeries and fallen leaves. Well composed with wonderful harmony.

Cuvée 7 Villány

Harvested from vines in Villány. Made from 41% Merlot and 59% Cabernet Sauvignon. Darker in color, jammy, fruity in aroma with tastes of blueberry and blackburry. Nice, long finish with chocolate, cappucino aromas.

Cuvée 7 Siklós

Harvested from Siklós grapes, this wine is 34%Merlot, 33%Cabernet Sauvignon, 33%Cabernet Franc. Incerdibly rich in color and aroma, with intense mineral flavors that give it more of a bite and intensity. Richer in acidity too. Paprika aromas.

Merlot 2006 Kopár

This wine has a silver label that denotes its premium quality at the winery. They curb the yield of the vines to 2100 kilogramms per hectare. Ruby red in color, notes of ripe berries in flavor and aroma. Strong taste with 15% alcohol.

Cabernet Franc 2006
Also a premium category wine. Even the bottle is a bit more compact, heavier, so you already get the sense of the full-bodiedness of the wine before seeing what's in the bottle. Complex, mature tastes, big, full-bodied wine, nicely settled, with a pointed taste. The French barrel also plays an active role in the flavor of the wine, making the taste rounded and complete. Long finish.

Cuvée 5

Only 1800 bottles were bottled. 40% Merlot from Fekete Hegy, 30% Cabernet Franc and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon from Ördögárok. Also a full-bodied wine with ripe flavors, easily palatable, smooth, and well-balanced.

When jugding the wines, the group could not decide upon one favorite. Among our favorites were the Kadarka, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and C7 Villány. We were able to determine, however, that we tasted many wonderful wines that were thoughtfully prepared with well-deserved results perceivable in the taste and style.