Borturista Pinot Noir Test - December 10th, 2008

After Sideways, which premiered in 2004, the number of Pinot fans have shot through the roof. An interesting statistic--when the movie started playing in the US, Pinot sales increased by 33% in the first twelve weeks! A favored variety around the world, it is typically a type of wine that you are either crazy about or not. But we love it! Originating in Burgundy, this is one of France's pride and joy. Despite the difficulties in making a good Pinot, more and more wineries are taking on the challange. ...

The grape itself is very delicate, thin skinned, rots easily, prefers cooler climates over warm, dry summers, which, lets admit, we have had a lot of lately. This variety is planted almost everywhere in Hungary with or without much success. In the Borturista test, we tasted nine wines, alternating Hungarian wines with ones from abroad. Those from abroad came from Italy, Austria, France, and Slovenia.

The last of these was a biodynamically made wine. This quickly became an interesting topic of conversation in the group. Basically, biodynamic wines come from a natural environment where no chemicals, pesticides, or artificial fertilizers are used. The soil's micobiology is restored and nature is left to fend for itself against harmful pests. Poison ivy teas and other natural substances are used for protection. I'd be curious to know what powdery mildew has to say about all this! Biodynamic farmers pay close attention to the environment that constantly alerts them to the changing conditions. They also pay attention to astrology, which also has a constant affect on the whole process. One of the most convincing arguments for biodynamics was that tomatos grown in the backyard have a totally different (better) taste than those prepared industrially. What I really don't understand, however, is what role does a bark-filled animal skull or dandelions fermented in a cow's intestines play in all this? The vintner's philosophy is "not to make the best wine, but a wine that is true to itself". Nevertheless, it is interesting to note that more and more wine makers are starting to dabble in biodynamic farming, which is comforting on some level because at least we are not being poisoned with harmful chemicals.

There was one major factor we took into consideration when choosing wines from abroad--that they have received some sort of award or acknowledgement and, of course, that the price not be astronomical. We chose the Hungarian wines on a similar basis. During the evening, we got to know many faces of Pinot Noir, everyone of which I appreciated. Each had its own style, character, uniqueness. My respect for the variety and vintners who represent it has grown immensely.

Kattra Winery Pinot Noir 2007 Etyek – Hungary

I first tasted this wine this summer at the Buda Wine Festival and liked it already then. Nice and fruity - sweet spicy aromas with notes of strawberry and an elegant acidity. Perhaps a bit thinner than the rest and the alcohol was a bit obtrusive. I'd glady drink a glass of this wine any time, great with dinner.

Tramin Pinot Nero 2006 – Italy

Located in South Tyrol, the winery was established in 1898. From the home of the Tramini grape, this was the southern most Pinot tasted during the course of the evening. Darker in color, aromatic, with flavors of raspberry, jam, tarragon, and anise. More muscular in body, totally different style from the previous wine. This wine was listed amongst Wine and Food Magazine's world's 30 best Pinot Noirs.

Etyeki Kúria Pinot Noir 2007 – Hungary

From Etyek, made under the direction of an Austrian vintner, Rudolf Krizan. Notably darker considering its variety. A slight coolness can be detected in the nose, despite this, it is still warm in flavor. Fruity notes in the lead, followed by notes of caramel. Concentrated, robust flavors, slightly earthy and mineral, with gendle oaky tones.

Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 2005 – France

From the home of Pinot Noir, Burgundy, Louis Jadot established this winery in 1859. They have received much recognition from around the world. In aromas, this is mostly likely the truest Pinot. Rich, green herbs, earthy aromas with hint of paint/varnish in the nose. Great balance of flavors, nice acidity, fruity, complex, long finish.

Gere Tamás & Zsolt Pinot Noir Selection 2006 – Hungary

From Hungary's southern-most wine region, Villány. Tile red in color, thick, perfect varietal aroma. Elegant, delicate, cherry flavors with a hint of tarragon and green tea. The barrel notes nicely integrate. Harmonious, complete.

Beck Pinot Noir 2005 – Austria

The winery is located in Burgenland right next to lake Neusiedlersee. They havest from 13 hectares. Judith Beck has been running the winery since 2006, who learned the trade in France, Italy, and Chile. Initially aromas are a bit closed, warm, animally and later open up to spicier notes. Cooler in flavor, notes of green tea, fruitiness, and cinnamon with a bit of raw tannins. It has definite character, but for me, the slight bitterness in the aftertaste was a bit disturbing. This wine was also listed among the best 30 Pinots in Wine and Food magazine.

Ferenczi Winery Pinot Noir 2006 Szekszárd, Hungary

Sligtly closed aromas, nice fruitiness, ripe, concentrated, well-prepared wine. Just one thing is missing--the Pinot. Comparetd to the other wines, we couldn't find the varietal character in this one. Despite this, some liked this wine the best.

Movia Modri Pinot Noir 2003 – Szlovenia

This is the biodynamic wine I mentioned previously from Slovenia, not far from the Italian border, at the foot of the Alps. They have been farming biodynamically since 1988. They have Pino vines 180 years old and bottle their wine during a lunar eclipse. Dark in color, the fist aroma detected is geranium. Later mint, green tea notes come to surface next to more earthy aromas, though the scent of geraniums is there throughout. True to its varietal character, it is a very unique wine.

Gere Tamás & Zsolt Pinot Noir 2002 Villány, Hungary

Intense aromas, conentrated, sweet, well-balanced, nice vegetable aromas. Its age does it justice; it is holding up very well and has matured nicely. Harmonious.

Final conclusion: every wine proved its rightful place amongst the best Pinots. Truly, every wine was one that I'd drink gladly any time. When we concluded our vote of our top three favorite wines, the results that came back varied. Etyeki Kúria Pinot Noir received the most votes, in second place was the French Pinot from Louis Jadot, and finally third place was split between Gere Tamás & Zsolt's 2006 and 2002 Pinot Noir.

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